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Double-Action Airbrush Advice; The Never Ending Forum Subject, hehehehe
Topic Started: Feb 17 2018, 12:48 AM (547 Views)
dixieflyer
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Yeah, I know, airbrush advice questions are the never ending subject, aren't they?

The only airbrushing experience I've ever had was with a single-action airbrush some time back: an old Badger 350 I bought eons ago, and a no-name knock off. A good while back I took some gift money and armed with a 40% off coupon hit Hobby Lobby and bought an Iwata Eclipse airbrush because I'd heard folks rave about them.

I've never used one of these.

On my current build I'm going to be spraying enamels (WEM Colourcoats, Testors, etc.) lacquers (Alclad), and Tamiya paints.

Any and all advice about spraying these through this type of airbrush is most appreciated.

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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Chuck1945
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Alclad can spray directly,no thinning required.

Which model Eclipse. gravity feed (paint cup on top) or siphon feed (paint bottle on the bottom? The type of feed will determine further advice .
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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RJ Tucker
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Ack, Oop, THPPFFT Baby
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I'm a life long Badger fan, so it's the Badger 150 for me! :clap:

RJ
Phantoms phorever!


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jvenables
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RJ Tucker
Feb 17 2018, 03:03 AM
I'm a life long Badger fan
Me too. As I said recently, it's the 200 for me - been using it it for almost 25 years now and it still looks & works like new.

Just a question re the Iwata Eclipse: if it is a "true" double action airbrush, what is the function of the threaded knob on the needle? Is it just to set a maximum (or minimum?) limit on the trigger? If it is the paint flow adjustment, then it is not really a double action airbrush at all.

But since the OP is asking advice about double action weapons: Prior to my Badger 200, I used an Olympus double action airbrush and although a long time ago, I don't recall any difference in preparation of the paint for spraying, any difference in spraying technique (aside from getting used to depressing and pulling back on the trigger simultaneously), nor any difference in cleaning the airbrush after use.
Edited by jvenables, Feb 17 2018, 01:24 PM.
James from Brisbane, Australia
Now living in Laos

Nil illegitimi carborundum
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RJ Tucker
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Ack, Oop, THPPFFT Baby
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jvenables
Feb 17 2018, 07:55 AM
RJ Tucker
Feb 17 2018, 03:03 AM
I'm a life long Badger fan
Me too. As I said recently, it's the 200 for me - been using it it for almost 25 years now and it still looks & works like new.
(snip)
Yep, I got my Badger 200 for Christmas in 1974. Still going! Since, the question was about double-action airbrushes, I chimed in about the 250 which I use for close-in detail work. But, the 200 is my go-to work horse 99% of the time. _^

RJ
Phantoms phorever!


Flag Plot: My virtual model display shelf
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woody
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I have a couple of Eclipses, not bad but I prefer the Paasche V-1. Ok, on to spraying paint. I use enamels, mostly Model Master. Thinned 2 thinner/3 paint. If you can find any of the old Floquil retarder substitute for one of the thinner. Usually about 12 psi. As always, several light coats work way better than one heavy coat.

Yes the Eclipse is a true double action. The knurled knob seen thought the slot in the handle is the collet chuck for the needle. Why it is exposed is beyond me.
Cheers,
Woody
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dixieflyer
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Thanks guys.

- Chuck1945 my Eclipse model has a large (to me) gravity feed cup on top.

- I was really just wanting advice on paint mixtures/ratios, methods, or techniques for the paints I mentioned that might differ from or might be unique to using double action airbrushes in general.

- While I appreciate you might prefer a different brand or model of airbrush than the one I purchased, I bought what was available to me at the time and what fit in my budget.

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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Chuck1945
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Great, gravity feed.

Gravity feed, everything else equal, needs less air pressure to operate and paint/thinner ratios adjusted accordingly. (In my mind at least, they are also easier to clean) Recognize there is still an art (black art?) to airbrush use and pant thinning and what works for one person wont necessarily work for another. I don't use enamels so no specific comment on them. As I said in my initial reply, Alclad is airbrush ready, but in general if the paint is ok in the bottle (not thick) then a starting ratio like Woody suggested is a good beginning. Use some old 'shelf of doom' model as a test bed, try different ratios as well. For fine stuff like Luftwaffe mottle I use a ratio of somewhere around 6-8 thinner:1 paint and low air pressure, less than 10 psi.

I have two Iwatas, well one is probably made by Iwata but sold as a Gunze product, and my major gripe is they are more difficult to clean due to the tiny nozzle that requires a special tool to remove. When a spray session is done, I flush the color cup with lacquer thinners (a good vent system is very helpful) and remove whatever is necessary at the front of the brush to extract the needle forward. Then clean the front end of the brush. Both of my Iwatas are prone to getting paint back in the body of the brush if the needle is extracted to the rear, hence doing it from the front (if possible)
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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dixieflyer
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Thanks Chuck1945, that was very helpful!

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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peebeep
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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woody
Feb 17 2018, 03:01 PM
Why it is exposed is beyond me.
It enables you to retract the needle fully whilst operating the air, quite handy for blowing neat thinners through the nozzle to clear it out. It doesn't mean you can avoid a strip down from time to time to properly clean the needle and nozzle.

I'll second Woody's recommendation for well thinned paint and low air pressure. I've been using an Eclipse for several years and only recently added, but not completely replaced it with a pistol grip Grex, which I find more comfortable to use for extended spraying sessions.
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Paul Brown, Chelmsford, UK Posted Image
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dixieflyer
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peebeep
Feb 18 2018, 01:18 PM
I'll second Woody's recommendation for well thinned paint and low air pressure. I've been using an Eclipse for several years and only recently added, but not completely replaced it with a pistol grip Grex, which I find more comfortable to use for extended spraying sessions.
Thank you Paul. The only airbrushes I've operated so far were single-action siphon feed. Easy to hold with my fingers and thumb gripping airbrush and bottle. This Eclipse on the other hand does seem a bit awkward to me. It'll take some getting used to.

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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peebeep
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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I think you'll find the top air release more intuitive to work with for fineline and freehand work. It's more akin to holding a pen or pencil.
www.locate-and-cement.com
Locate and Cement website
RevellAtions
Bring me my chariot of fire
Paul Brown, Chelmsford, UK Posted Image
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dixieflyer
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Thanks Paul. This is exactly the kind of information or advice I was looking for.

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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keefr22
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Who, me?
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One thing I'd watch out for with the Iwata & spraying stuff like Alclad, is to check whether your airbrush still has the traditional rubber needle & other seals. The laquer or cellulose thinners needed to clean the brush can dissolve them - as it did in both of my Iwata's. I've now replaced the Iwatas with Harder and Steenbeck's which come with PTFE seals as standard. I know that there's now a solvent resistant needle seal available for my Iwata HP-CH, so if you plan on using a lot of hot paints/thinners through your brush it might be worth checking if you can get them for yours....

Keith
Keith Ryder
Swansea UK

'A plan is vital, but is never more than a basis for change'
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dixieflyer
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Thanks very much for that advice Keith! That's the kind of info I needed to hear.

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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