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Double-Action Airbrush Advice; The Never Ending Forum Subject, hehehehe
Topic Started: Feb 17 2018, 12:48 AM (548 Views)
dknights
Member Avatar
The court of LAST RESORT!
[ * ]
RJ Tucker
Feb 17 2018, 03:03 AM
I'm a life long Badger fan, so it's the Badger 150 for me! :clap:
My 150 is my workhorse go-to airbrush. It is nearly indestructible.
David M. Knights
Fortes fortuna adiuvat

14 Finished: Special Armor V-2, Airfix P-51
15 Finished: SBS Gladiator engine
16 Finished: Brengun C2 Wasserfall, Merit SS-N-2 Styx, World's smallest diorama, Airfix Hurricane.
17 Finished: Japanese Carrier Deck, Belcher SS-4, Italeri AB41, PLAN Type 039A (not 72nd scale)
18 Finished: NONE
The bench:Platz T-33, Trump. T-34/85, Meng F-106, Airfix P-51 #2, Airfix P-40
Revell MiG-21F-13, Ace Citroen V-11
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dknights
Member Avatar
The court of LAST RESORT!
[ * ]
Warren,

One piece of advice. Thin your enamel paint (I love Colourcoats) to the consistency of 2% milk. Then heat it in a glass jar on a coffee cup/candle warmer until the paint is nice and warm. You'll be amazed at how well the paint flows.
David M. Knights
Fortes fortuna adiuvat

14 Finished: Special Armor V-2, Airfix P-51
15 Finished: SBS Gladiator engine
16 Finished: Brengun C2 Wasserfall, Merit SS-N-2 Styx, World's smallest diorama, Airfix Hurricane.
17 Finished: Japanese Carrier Deck, Belcher SS-4, Italeri AB41, PLAN Type 039A (not 72nd scale)
18 Finished: NONE
The bench:Platz T-33, Trump. T-34/85, Meng F-106, Airfix P-51 #2, Airfix P-40
Revell MiG-21F-13, Ace Citroen V-11
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dixieflyer
Member Avatar
Hero
[ * ]
Well, I'm having to go back to square one now. I was going to use enamels, Alclad, etc. thinned with lacquer thinner, clean the airbrush with lacquer thinner, etc. Now I know I can't without some kind of additional seals, etc., or buy another airbrush, which I cannot afford.

Back to square one.

Thanks guys, at least I didn't screw it up. Yet.

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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dknights
Member Avatar
The court of LAST RESORT!
[ * ]
dixieflyer
Mar 3 2018, 12:06 AM
Well, I'm having to go back to square one now. I was going to use enamels, Alclad, etc. thinned with lacquer thinner, clean the airbrush with lacquer thinner, etc. Now I know I can't without some kind of additional seals, etc., or buy another airbrush, which I cannot afford.

Back to square one.

Thanks guys, at least I didn't screw it up. Yet.

Warren
I use lacquer thinner in my Iwata and Badger without any problems.
David M. Knights
Fortes fortuna adiuvat

14 Finished: Special Armor V-2, Airfix P-51
15 Finished: SBS Gladiator engine
16 Finished: Brengun C2 Wasserfall, Merit SS-N-2 Styx, World's smallest diorama, Airfix Hurricane.
17 Finished: Japanese Carrier Deck, Belcher SS-4, Italeri AB41, PLAN Type 039A (not 72nd scale)
18 Finished: NONE
The bench:Platz T-33, Trump. T-34/85, Meng F-106, Airfix P-51 #2, Airfix P-40
Revell MiG-21F-13, Ace Citroen V-11
Goto Top
 
Chuck1945
Hero
[ * ]
dixieflyer
Mar 3 2018, 12:06 AM
Well, I'm having to go back to square one now. I was going to use enamels, Alclad, etc. thinned with lacquer thinner, clean the airbrush with lacquer thinner, etc. Now I know I can't without some kind of additional seals, etc., or buy another airbrush, which I cannot afford.

Back to square one.

Thanks guys, at least I didn't screw it up. Yet.

Warren
Worth a try. You already have the Iwata. Don't soak the parts in lacquer thinner for cleaning but spraying it through should work. I've cleaned my Iwata (HP-C) with lacquer thinner with no apparent ill effects. Worst case a new head unit 'O'ring is $5.45 at Dixie Art
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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dixieflyer
Member Avatar
Hero
[ * ]
True. I'll try to give it a go, hopefully before too long. Real life things are eating my time right now, but I hope to get back to the bench soon.

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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keefr22
Member Avatar
Who, me?
[ * ]
dknights
Mar 3 2018, 04:19 AM
dixieflyer
Mar 3 2018, 12:06 AM
Well, I'm having to go back to square one now. I was going to use enamels, Alclad, etc. thinned with lacquer thinner, clean the airbrush with lacquer thinner, etc. Now I know I can't without some kind of additional seals, etc., or buy another airbrush, which I cannot afford.

Back to square one.

Thanks guys, at least I didn't screw it up. Yet.

Warren
I use lacquer thinner in my Iwata and Badger without any problems.
I would say I guess I'm unlucky then, but I know a few other people that the same thing has happened to. I first noticed the Iwata solvent resistant seal listed by a US airbrush supplier (Coast Airbrush?) a number of years ago, but never tried to buy any from them. I wonder if Iwata in the US uses different factory seals to the UK?

Good luck with it anyway Warren - and if you're going to be spraying colourcoats I know you'll enjoy it, they are just about the best paints I've ever airbrushed!

Keith
Keith Ryder
Swansea UK

'A plan is vital, but is never more than a basis for change'
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MDriskill
Hero
[ * ]
This is drifting away from your original question...but if internal seals reacting to solvents is a worry, take a look at an older Paasche airbrush.

I have a Paasche VL that I bought before many of you were born, which still works perfectly. This big ol’ bottom-feed siphon brush is the universal tool of T-shirt artists worldwide, LOL, but capable of pretty fine work with its no. 1 tip and needle set. Possibly the easiest double-action airbrush to service ever made too, its few internal bits look like locomotive parts compared to my Harder & Steenbeck.

Lately I’ve been using the small Paasche models V (side-feed siphon) and VJR (gravity feed). I recently picked up a basically NIB example of each for pocket money (each was—no exaggeration—less than the cost of a replacement tip and needle for my H&S). Beautifully balanced little guys that are fun and intuitive to use, too.

All these vintage Paasche designs have exactly two resilient parts: the tiny seal at the top of the air valve (easy to replace, and never exposed to paint anyhow), and the ring seal through which the needle passes at the rear of the air chamber (actually brass in older examples, but PTFE in newer ones). That’s it...all other sealing in the tip and elsewhere is achieved solely by close metal-to-metal fits. They are pretty much indestructible.

The VL is still made...and may never die. The V and VJR are discontinued, but are not hard to find (NOS VJR’s are still being pawned off on EBay, etc., as fingernail-painting kits). Parts are cheap and plentiful, too.

Few pro graphic artists would go for these nowadays I suppose, but I wonder if they aren’t better suited for model paints and hot thinners, than some more complex newer designs.
Edited by MDriskill, Mar 8 2018, 11:27 AM.
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peebeep
Member Avatar
Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
[ * ]
I've shot all sorts of hot solvents through my Eclipse, never had any issues.
www.locate-and-cement.com
Locate and Cement website
RevellAtions
Bring me my chariot of fire
Paul Brown, Chelmsford, UK Posted Image
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Mark Schynert
Member Avatar
Yeast
[ * ]
As far as lacquer thinner and Iwatas are concerned, keep in mind that lacquer thinner is simply a term of art for something that will effectively thin a lacquer paint. these thinners vary in their capacity to dissolve things. the Tamiya and Mr. Color lacquer thinners are exceptionally mild, being mostly a mix of alcohols, with some diethyl ketone. I seriously doubt they are going to cause any damage to an Iwata seal unless the seal is inundated with the stuff for a long period. And maybe not even then. Prompt cleaning after a painting session, especially with isopropanol after lacquer thinner, and blowing dry air through after that to accelerate evaporation of any thinner residue, should absolutely avoid a problem.

OTOH, if you're using xylene or acetone or some of the automotive thinners, all bets are off. Some of that stuff is very hot, and it could be the Iwata is simply not going to stand up to that.
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dknights
Member Avatar
The court of LAST RESORT!
[ * ]
Warren,

Do you do Facebook? If so, PM me. I might be able to hook you up with some help.
David M. Knights
Fortes fortuna adiuvat

14 Finished: Special Armor V-2, Airfix P-51
15 Finished: SBS Gladiator engine
16 Finished: Brengun C2 Wasserfall, Merit SS-N-2 Styx, World's smallest diorama, Airfix Hurricane.
17 Finished: Japanese Carrier Deck, Belcher SS-4, Italeri AB41, PLAN Type 039A (not 72nd scale)
18 Finished: NONE
The bench:Platz T-33, Trump. T-34/85, Meng F-106, Airfix P-51 #2, Airfix P-40
Revell MiG-21F-13, Ace Citroen V-11
Goto Top
 
keefr22
Member Avatar
Who, me?
[ * ]
Mark Schynert
Mar 7 2018, 02:55 AM
As far as lacquer thinner and Iwatas are concerned, keep in mind that lacquer thinner is simply a term of art for something that will effectively thin a lacquer paint. these thinners vary in their capacity to dissolve things. the Tamiya and Mr. Color lacquer thinners are exceptionally mild, being mostly a mix of alcohols, with some diethyl ketone. I seriously doubt they are going to cause any damage to an Iwata seal unless the seal is inundated with the stuff for a long period. And maybe not even then. Prompt cleaning after a painting session, especially with isopropanol after lacquer thinner, and blowing dry air through after that to accelerate evaporation of any thinner residue, should absolutely avoid a problem.

OTOH, if you're using xylene or acetone or some of the automotive thinners, all bets are off. Some of that stuff is very hot, and it could be the Iwata is simply not going to stand up to that.
Indeed, it could be a 'lost in translation' issue - I'm referring to cellulose thinner, which I always thought was the 'laquer thinner' used in the US. I'm now getting that this isn't always the case. Cellulose thinners do contain xylene...

Keith
Keith Ryder
Swansea UK

'A plan is vital, but is never more than a basis for change'
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RexTN
Member Avatar
Accidental CAG
[ * ]
"bought before many of you were born"

geez, and I thought my H's were old.
yep, one of each USN squadron

http://hangardeckview.blogspot.com/
http://z15.invisionfree.com/Hangar_Deck_Re...dex.php?act=idx
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Chuck1945
Hero
[ * ]
RexTN
Mar 7 2018, 06:18 PM
"bought before many of you were born"

geez, and I thought my H's were old.
I bought an 'H' in 1967. My first airbrush
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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dixieflyer
Member Avatar
Hero
[ * ]
Thanks guys, again, this is the kind of info I was looking for. Believe it or not, I've got an ancient double-action airbrush given to me by a relative that bought it at Sears 30-35 years ago (I think). I want to say that the airbrushes Sears sold were actually rebranded Paasche. Anyone remember if that is so?

David, I PM'd you on the Facing Book.

Sorry I didn't get to this thread sooner, had to prep for a job interview with this morning, and a doctor's appointment this afternoon. I'm going to take a well deserved break now.

Warren
Edited by dixieflyer, Mar 7 2018, 11:54 PM.
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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