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Primer; Do you use it and what do you use?
Topic Started: Sep 15 2016, 12:28 PM (1,074 Views)
dknights
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The court of LAST RESORT!
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Pyran,Sep 15 2016
07:18 PM
I use Mr. Surfacer sprays. Mr. Surfacer 500 on items that have had a lot of filler/sanding to identify and sand out blemishes or for models in larger scales. Mr. Surfacer 1000 for the first primer coat of most 1/72 models for the above reason and Mr. Surfacer 1200 for pure priming purposes. However, I would be hard pressed to be able to tell the difference between 1000 and 1200 and I'm sure I've used both as a final primer before.

Cost and availability tend to be the biggest drawbacks of Mr. Surfacer products but I've found sealmodel.com to be a very reasonable and reliable source (I have no affiliation with sealmodel). As a bonus, Gunze aqueous paints which are impossible to find in the states are only $1.50 each.

My LHS stocks the Mr. Surfacer products, but before they did I got them off Amazon.
David M. Knights
Fortes fortuna adiuvat

14 Finished: Special Armor V-2, Airfix P-51
15 Finished: SBS Gladiator engine
16 Finished: Brengun C2 Wasserfall, Merit SS-N-2 Styx, World's smallest diorama, Airfix Hurricane.
17 Finished: Japanese Carrier Deck, Belcher SS-4, Italeri AB41, PLAN Type 039A (not 72nd scale)
18 Finished: NONE
The bench:Platz T-33, Trump. T-34/85, Meng F-106, Airfix P-51 #2, Airfix P-40
Revell MiG-21F-13, Ace Citroen V-11
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Big Kohona
Hero
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. .
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Jonathan
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Destroy All Monsters
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Tamiya fine grey primer for aircraft, Humbrol primer for tanks, both straight from the spray can.

The Tamiya primer is silky smooth, essential for aircraft. The Humbrol primer is smooth, not as much as the Tamiya, but on an AFV that's not quite as essential.
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Santacarl
Advanced Member
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Boy I wish this thread had been here when I started priming my current build.....I used MM primer and what a disaster.......flaking...pulling up......repair, repair, repair, repair.......... Never again. Their color acrylics might be good but that primer should be outlawed. :angry:
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Big Kohona
Hero
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airjiml2
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Beast
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Big Kohona,Sep 23 2016
09:46 PM
Is that their lacquer based primer? I was looking at purchasing a few bottles of their grey "fine" primer - sounds like I should reconsider...

I tried the Testors Lacquer Primer and it was ok. Not as smooth as Tamiya or Mr. Surfacer, but it did the job. That being said, with the better Tamiya and Gunze products, I do see any reason to purchase the Testors item outside of curiosity or lack of ability to source the better primers.

Hellcat in Primer

Jim
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Santacarl
Advanced Member
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Big Kohona,Sep 23 2016
09:46 PM
Is that their lacquer based primer?  I was looking at purchasing a few bottles of their grey "fine" primer - sounds like I should reconsider...

Well the bottle says "Acrylic". The one I used is "Gray Primer"..MM 4680.

I toyed with some of the other acrylics and settled on the MM line because it had the closest colors I could find to several projects I'm working on.....my thought was to use their primer with their paints thinking they would work well together.....Silly me.... I won't make that mistake again.....
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RexTN
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Accidental CAG
[ * ]
Santacarl, did that "primer" pull up just as if you had used paint on the bare plastic?

I ask that because some paint companies that cater to the car modelers have paints the color of 1/1 scale auto primers in their paint lines. Vallejo has one such paint in their line, and I believe that Model Master Gray Primer and White Primer are Colors to replicate a primed car, not actual primers.

If so, you might not have actually given Model Master primer a try yet.
yep, one of each USN squadron

http://hangardeckview.blogspot.com/
http://z15.invisionfree.com/Hangar_Deck_Re...dex.php?act=idx
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Big Kohona
Hero
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InchHigh
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It's a good day to build.
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If you need extra "bite", thin your enamels with lacquer thinner. Makes them lay down better too.
Jeff

Time spent modeling is not deducted from your lifespan.

I spent most of my money on beer and women. The rest of it I just wasted.
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softscience
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Hero
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I typically do not prime. I paint with Tamiya whenever possible, and I have found that wiping down the model with some isopropyl before the first coat usually does the trick.

I do use primer when painting with Vallejo, and then I only use their proprietary primers. I find them absolutely necessary, otherwise their paints rub off with handling.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Greetings from beautiful Maryland,
Ralph K.
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Santacarl
Advanced Member
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RexTN,Sep 24 2016
06:23 PM
Santacarl, did that "primer" pull up just as if you had used paint on the bare plastic?

I ask that because some paint companies that cater to the car modelers have paints the color of 1/1 scale auto primers in their paint lines. Vallejo has one such paint in their line, and I believe that Model Master Gray Primer and White Primer are Colors to replicate a primed car, not actual primers.

If so, you might not have actually given Model Master primer a try yet.

Rex...

Yepper....it pulled up like paper.....your explanation makes sense...I don't understand why they would name it primer if it's not real primer...how confusing is that to anybody just trying the product....

Thanks for the explanation....Now I know.....one model wasted to learn the lesson though.
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stimpy
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Is It Safe?..... Nope
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Another consideration for you and acrylics, spray a couple of thin layers of Future floor polish on the model before or during paint changes. The acrylic paint will adhere very well to that. However, an example where even this goes wrong.....

I am using Akan's acrylics just now on my Yak-1. I primed the model with Alcad's grey primer which is typically bomb proof, after I had cleaned the surface with alcohol. I put down the under surface blue. Now I know from experience that Akan's blue does not stick. So I sprayed 2 coats of Future over the blue before I masked this. I then sprayed the Akan black and green camo scheme. Removing the masking, I still had one area that peeled away on the raised 'corner' of the lower fuselage.

I have never been able to peel off the green or black paint but boy the blue can be infuriating. On the same note I have this problem with some of the Vallejo greens, while their greys stick like glue.

No more plastic
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dknights
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The court of LAST RESORT!
[ * ]
stimpy,Sep 27 2016
07:36 AM
Another consideration for you and acrylics, spray a couple of thin layers of Future floor polish on the model before or during paint changes. The acrylic paint will adhere very well to that. However, an example where even this goes wrong.....

I am using Akan's acrylics just now on my Yak-1. I primed the model with Alcad's grey primer which is typically bomb proof, after I had cleaned the surface with alcohol. I put down the under surface blue. Now I know from experience that Akan's blue does not stick. So I sprayed 2 coats of Future over the blue before I masked this. I then sprayed the Akan black and green camo scheme. Removing the masking, I still had one area that peeled away on the raised 'corner' of the lower fuselage.

I have never been able to peel off the green or black paint but boy the blue can be infuriating. On the same note I have this problem with some of the Vallejo greens, while their greys stick like glue.

I have some Akan paints but haven't used them. I have their lacquers.
David M. Knights
Fortes fortuna adiuvat

14 Finished: Special Armor V-2, Airfix P-51
15 Finished: SBS Gladiator engine
16 Finished: Brengun C2 Wasserfall, Merit SS-N-2 Styx, World's smallest diorama, Airfix Hurricane.
17 Finished: Japanese Carrier Deck, Belcher SS-4, Italeri AB41, PLAN Type 039A (not 72nd scale)
18 Finished: NONE
The bench:Platz T-33, Trump. T-34/85, Meng F-106, Airfix P-51 #2, Airfix P-40
Revell MiG-21F-13, Ace Citroen V-11
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Big Kohona
Hero
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