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What is your go to paint line?; Why?
Topic Started: Sep 16 2016, 01:53 AM (1,291 Views)
Mark Schynert
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Yeast
[ * ]
Big Kohona,Sep 17 2016
11:06 PM
Thanks Woody. I figured as much on the Floquil retarder. I hoped that maybe you knew of a hobby shop with a secret stash of the stuff! :lol:

Another good idea of mixing it on a shot glass ^_^

The MSDS for the Floquil retarders (there are several different ones listed) all contain naptha as the active ingredient, at a concentration of ">1%" --how much greater I don't know, and I don't know what else is in there. However, the MSDS for Ronsonol lighter fluid is 70% hyrdrolated petroleum products and 30% light naptha, so perhaps a couple of drops of that would retard these paints? Ronson lighter fluid was used to thin SNJ when you could still get it, so it's not unknown as a solvent in the hobby. Worth mixing into that shot glass maybe.
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Chuck1945
Hero
[ * ]
Mark Schynert,Sep 17 2016
04:23 PM
Big Kohona,Sep 17 2016
11:06 PM
Thanks Woody.  I figured as much on the Floquil retarder.  I hoped that maybe you knew of a hobby shop with a secret stash of the stuff!  :lol:

Another good idea of mixing it on a shot glass  ^_^

The MSDS for the Floquil retarders (there are several different ones listed) all contain naptha as the active ingredient, at a concentration of ">1%" --how much greater I don't know, and I don't know what else is in there. However, the MSDS for Ronsonol lighter fluid is 70% hyrdrolated petroleum products and 30% light naptha, so perhaps a couple of drops of that would retard these paints? Ronson lighter fluid was used to thin SNJ when you could still get it, so it's not unknown as a solvent in the hobby. Worth mixing into that shot glass maybe.

I would suggest that while the shot glass idea to test a mix is good, only do it if you have at least one more clean shot glass - it may be needed for your own use if the mix turns to goo :lol:
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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Mark Schynert
Member Avatar
Yeast
[ * ]
Chuck1945,Sep 17 2016
11:47 PM
Mark Schynert,Sep 17 2016
04:23 PM
Big Kohona,Sep 17 2016
11:06 PM
Thanks Woody.  I figured as much on the Floquil retarder.  I hoped that maybe you knew of a hobby shop with a secret stash of the stuff!  :lol:

Another good idea of mixing it on a shot glass  ^_^

The MSDS for the Floquil retarders (there are several different ones listed) all contain naptha as the active ingredient, at a concentration of ">1%" --how much greater I don't know, and I don't know what else is in there. However, the MSDS for Ronsonol lighter fluid is 70% hyrdrolated petroleum products and 30% light naptha, so perhaps a couple of drops of that would retard these paints? Ronson lighter fluid was used to thin SNJ when you could still get it, so it's not unknown as a solvent in the hobby. Worth mixing into that shot glass maybe.

I would suggest that while the shot glass idea to test a mix is good, only do it if you have at least one more clean shot glass - it may be needed for your own use if the mix turns to goo :lol:

Eh, the bottle fits my lips just fine. Shot glasses just limit capacity B)
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Big Kohona
Hero
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. .
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dixieflyer
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Hero
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Back in the early 80's I gave thought to building models again. I worked at a testing lab, and we had drums of all kinds of lovely stuff sitting around. I *acquired*, and kept for a long time, a glass jar of naptha for use at the bench. Just never got around to it. (Way too many pretty girls to chase after, and when I wasn't doing that, I was running 'round the woods and fields dressed in old clothes and a musket in my hands. :D ;) )

Warren
"History is the lie we all agree upon."
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woody
Hero
[ * ]
Back when I got back into modeling in the late eighties, adding lighter fluid to your thinner/paint mix when using Pactra and Humbrol was a trick to make them spray better. Even though I did it I forgot all about the one! In PA at least, naptha is available at the hardware store in quarts and gallons.

Cliff, my thought on the photo you posted is that it may have been too much paint put on too fast was the actual cause. Not giving sufficient time for solvents to flash off often causes problems like that.
Cheers,
Woody
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Ryan Hothersall
Beast
[ * ]
I use mostly model master and tamiya enamels.

Between them, there's enough colour range for my needs. Not trouble with spraying them, they work great with my single action paasche airbrush and aren't hard to clean out of the brush either.

I do have some Humbrol left, but moved away from it because of the quality issues and tins are not airbrush friendly. Bottles are much easier to pour in to the cup on the air brush.
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