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Build sequence?; Airfix Swordfish
Topic Started: May 9 2012, 06:49 PM (578 Views)
Chuck1945
Hero
[ * ]
I have this kit underway here and have the fuselage all buttoned up. In the past, whenever I built a biplane, my procedure was to assemble and paint the fuselage and lower wing, but while also assembling the upper wing not attach it. Then all painting and decaling would be done with the last assembly step being to attach the struts and upper wing.

However, with the Airfix Swordfish, the upper wing is assembled onto a spar (I am doing the wings extended option) fixed into the center section with the struts being trapped in the outer wing halves. The lower wing halves look to essentially be tied to the rest of the plane by the struts with only a butt join to the lower wing center section. If this interpretation is correct, my usual sequence is knocked into the corner and I am looking for any possible approaches to deal with painting and decalling before it is all done. At present the fuselage has already been painted flat aluminium (fabric areas) and my approximation of Cerrux Grey on the metal covered parts. I am thinking I will need to assemble and attach the upper wing, before doing the lower, but an wondering if it is possible to completely assemble the entire upper wing, struts, center section and all, paint, decal, then attach to the fuselage?
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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kingofmen
Member Avatar
Least
[ * ]
Here is what I did.

I assembled the entire fuselage and wing stubs. Then I painted the Cerrux Grey (Lt A/C Grey) bits. Then I remasked them and built the upper wing and lower full wingspan. Next, I shot the rest of the aircraft in Aluminum. Then I CAREFULLY got off the masking on the front of the fuselage. It helps that this has to be one of the most solid biplanes that I have ever worked on. Because of the engineering on the struts, the assembly is rock solid. That's pretty rare in the biplane world, since you usually have single struts as pieces which are only anchored at their attachment points. That's what made it easy to unmask amidst all those struts.

I'd show you photos but I had yet another Alclad problem. The upper wing surfaces especially are spotty and don't look right. I'm trying to get ahold of some newer (or much older) White Aluminum to reshoot at least the upper wing.

In my haste (or just lack of paying attention) I forgot to shoot the upper fuselage Black, so I can't use the Xtradecal set and may have to revert to the kit markings. But once I decide how to handle the upper wing I will have some photos to post.

But I guess my point is that the kit's engineering makes the assembly very solid, so some of the problems with adding the upper wing too early are not there. OTOH if you are doing it due to painting (for instance, if you're doing the camo example with multiple colors that need to be masked and shot) you still may want to keep from putting the upper wing on until later.
Kevin Callahan
Auburn WA USA
Visit the re-energized 72 Land blog at http://72land.blogspot.com/
All hail 1:72!
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Chuck1945
Hero
[ * ]
I am doing a pre-war Swordfish (Ark Royal) using Xtradecal's second Swordfish sheet (blue-red-blue fuselage stripes). I thought perhaps the model would be solid enough to do the decals after assembly, but since most of my previous biplane experiences were with vac kits, I was afraid to get too far and disover I should have done painting and decals before both wings were on.

I did remember to mask the lower fuselage windows before attaching the stub wings and struts :)
Chuck
Eastern WA, USA
Finished 2018:
Eduard Spitfire IXc, VIII, Monogram/Starfighter BFC-2
On the active bench:
Eduard Bf 110C, Hasegawa B-24D, SH P-40E
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