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| Panel lines | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 7 2012, 10:52 PM (1,329 Views) | |
| chuckyeager | Jun 7 2012, 10:52 PM Post #1 |
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Advanced Member
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Can someone show me how they weather the recessed panel lines on aircraft, what to use , how to use it . Thanks |
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| Ed S | Jun 8 2012, 12:08 AM Post #2 |
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Beast
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Personally, I keep it simple. I generally use a drafting pencil with a sharp point. A #2 lead or HB depending on how dark I want the panel lines to show. This takes a light touch. Too much pressure with a sharp lead will actually cut into the paint. Usually darker around the moveable control surfaces. I then use a little pastel chalk to weather slightly around the lines. Then a coat of Dullcote to take away the graphite shine and seal the chalks. Keep the pastels lighter than you think you need. The Dullcote will make them appear darker. Ed |
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| InchHigh | Jun 8 2012, 02:28 AM Post #3 |
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It's a good day to build.
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I generally use a "sludge wash" with greys. Coat with Future, then mix up a wash with an acrylic paint, water, and a few drops of dish soap. Paint this into the panel lines with a fine brush, don't worry much about getting outside of the panel lines. When it starts to set up, scrub off the excess with a wet Q-tip, working perpendicular to the panel lines. The grey will be left in the recesses. Last, wipe the surface in the direction of the airflow, so any remainder adds to the weathering of the topcoat. Work in sections, the longer it dries the harder it is to remove the excess. Oil washes are similar, but more subtle. More flowing of the wash and the blending is done with a brush, and it takes some time to set up. Both ways are effective. |
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Jeff Time spent modeling is not deducted from your lifespan. I spent most of my money on beer and women. The rest of it I just wasted. | |
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| llordlloyd | Jun 8 2012, 06:22 AM Post #4 |
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Peter Lloyd
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I'm curious Jeff, this being something I've never been good at (though perhaps I can partly blame the shallow, inconsistent panel lines on the short-run kits I often build)... do you usually sludge wash over enamel base coats? Or are they safe on acrylics? Perhaps a longer drying time is a good idea? |
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| peebeep | Jun 8 2012, 11:17 AM Post #5 |
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Lots Of Trouble Usually Serious
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I'm a big fan of Flory Models Weathering Wash. It is clay based, non-toxic and provided it is applied to a reasonably glossy surface easy to remove, no matter how long you leave it after application. It needs a little drop of detergent added to it to help break the surface tension, otherwise it is a complete doddle to use. peebeep |
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www.locate-and-cement.com Locate and Cement website RevellAtions Bring me my chariot of fire Paul Brown, Chelmsford, UK
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| InchHigh | Jun 8 2012, 12:26 PM Post #6 |
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It's a good day to build.
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I always sludge wash over a coat of Future (Klear). That is an acrylic, but dries very hard. Makes wiping the excess off the surface much easier. Washing over flat paints makes it very diffucult to remove. Yes, shallow panel lines are more difficult to wash effectively. I have been leaning more and more towards a very subtle effect with washes and shading, but there is a matter of personal preference as well. A simple monochrome finish often looks two dimensional and toy-like, but heavy post-shading and black panel lines can be overdone and does not compare well with photos of the actual aircraft. I've been trying for something more in the middle lately. |
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Jeff Time spent modeling is not deducted from your lifespan. I spent most of my money on beer and women. The rest of it I just wasted. | |
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| keefr22 | Jun 9 2012, 09:12 AM Post #7 |
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Who, me?
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There's a very good tutorial by jbank on this very site; http://z15.invisionfree.com/72nd_Aircraft/...?showtopic=1549 I use a similar method but use Games Workshop ready mixed inks & a very fine brush 'painting' the wash into the lines as in the tutorial. I have a pointed Tamiya cotton swab on hand to remove any ink that gets out of the line as I go. Doesn't take long at all & I find it gives a much neater & more consistent result than sludge washes - but as already said it's all down to personal preference....!! Keef |
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Keith Ryder Swansea UK 'A plan is vital, but is never more than a basis for change' | |
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| walrus | Jun 9 2012, 03:08 PM Post #8 |
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Porco
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Acrylic wash the same colour but a shade or two darker than the finish. I prefer to keep it subtle now, but it depends on the subject. For example the cowling panel lines of Hurricanes can be much darker |
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Paul from Birmingham, UK Now living in Barnsley. | |
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| renscho | Jun 9 2012, 06:01 PM Post #9 |
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Administrator
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Cheap old me... I scrape a pastel stick (made of china clay) with the back of an X-Acto blade to make powder of whatever color. I usually use black with a bit of brown thrown in for fun. I throw the powder in a small throwaway plastic cup and add just enough water to make it goopy. A tiny amount of the famous dish soap and it's ready. (Mix it up good!) I slather the black/brown mix around engine area and exhaust area panel edges, let it dry a bit, and squeeze the water from a damp paper towel until it's pretty dry which I then use to remove excess goop. The black/brown mix also does pretty well around other removable panels and control surfaces. For other areas of the plane, I sometimes find a pastel that comes close to matching the paint color in that area of the model, mix it with some black to darken it just a bit, and slather the panel lines in the appropriate areas. I have been known to do the pencil line deal, too. I do the pastel thing over a gloss coat like just after decaling, and the pencil after a matt coat... I've used thinned Tamiya Smoke on bare metal areas as well. Doesn't look too bad, usually. :rolleyes: |
| Robert E. Rensch | |
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