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| No Fuel to Fuel Rail; No fuel getting to fuel rail. Stumped. | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 5 2017, 04:27 PM (59 Views) | |
| Left4Bread | Jun 5 2017, 04:27 PM Post #1 |
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Stage 1
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Ladies and Gents, I'm having trouble starting my right-hand-drive '97 AE111 GT (that unholy mix of an E110 and a '97 XLi with a Blacktop in it) and I could use some assistance. The engine rotates under the power of the starter motor, but the problem is that there is no fuel getting to the fuel rail. I've verified this by removing the fuel line where it meets the rail and turning the key to the ON position, whereupon no fuel comes out of the line. Not a drop. So, the fuel pump isn't priming and as far as I can determine, it isn't getting power. I don't think it has just failed, as I've swapped it out for a known good unit from my '00 E110 (facelift model, 4ZZ-FE). I have so far tried the following: 1. Checked the EFI fuses in the engine bay and driver side fuse box - all good. 2. Checked the EFI relay by removing it and energizing the coil with a benchtop 12 VDC supply - all good. Can hear a strong click, and a multimeter verifies continuity between the contacts. 3. Replaced the fuel pump with a known good (if old) unit - problem persists. 4. Checked the car for OBD codes (OBD1) - engine light continuously flashes. This is, apparently, good, but the jury is out on the result, since I've disconnected the battery for extended periods after I found the car wouldn't start, so I'm not sure if the ECU has had a chance to see any errors yet. 5. Jumped the B+ and FP terminals in the diagnostics socket - fuel pump does not come on both when key is in ON and IGN position. 6. Checked any relay I could find, hoping it might be the mysterious and elusive Circuit Opening Relay - all good, except for a flashing relay found in the driver side kick panel, P/N 81980-12110. I'll replace this at some stage. This last point seems to be the most likely culprit, according to the Internet; failure of the Circuit Opening Relay, which, as I'm sure many of you know, is the second relay in the control circuit for the fuel pump. I just can't find the buckin' thing. Reports of its location vary from the passenger kick panel to the area around the ECU to the driver side kick panel. My questions to you: 1. Where is the COR? 2. I understand the AFM is also part of this relay's coil energizing circuit. Could this have suddenly gone dead? 3. Has anyone any other ideas as to why the fuel pump isn't getting power? Stuff I haven't done: 1. Checked the timing. 2. Ruled out the AFM as the culprit. I've found one guide that indicates how to do this, but it requires use of the COR, which I can't find. Some further notes; The car has been sitting up for some time, about two/three months, since it was last driven. It did occasionally struggle to start, but it got there after <10/15 seconds of cranking. It appears that the car has been fitted with an aftermarket immobiliser. I have heard of this causing cars not to start after the battery goes flat, but I hadn't suspected that this was the reason for the fuel pump not working since in the past when the battery went flat, the car has started with a jump. Sorry for the long post, and thanks a million for the help if you can give it. If you need any more information or photos, just shout. EDIT: I as not given a fob for the immobiliser when I bought the car, and I didn't know it had one at the time. Edited by Left4Bread, Jun 5 2017, 04:28 PM.
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| AE111_JAMES | Jun 6 2017, 08:56 AM Post #2 |
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Stage 6
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have to checked that the immobilizer isnt cutting power to the fuel pump? COR - 85910A http://toyotamarket.ru/static/jp/B2/decoded_images/841230_.png im assuming yours is LHD so itll just be the mirror of the above image the afm only allows the fuel pump to operate for a few seconds, all it is, is a lever that opens a toggle switch when the flap inside the afm is closed |
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| ales_000 | Jun 7 2017, 01:22 AM Post #3 |
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Stage 6
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I would second James' suggestion that you make sure that the fuel pump hasn't been cut by the immobiliser. It isn't uncommon for them to cut feed to the fuel pump as a means of immobilising the car. |
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| Left4Bread | Jul 17 2017, 12:48 PM Post #4 |
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Stage 1
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OK! Thank you both above for your suggestions. I did some further research based on what you said, along with costing a new AFM before deciding to get the finger out and tackle the immobilizer. As it turned out, the immobilizer wasn't as embedded into the cars wiring as I was expecting, with 99% of it being taps into power and signal lines and the final 1% being a splice into *drum roll* the fuel pump power line. So, I removed the whole thing, re-insulated the wire taps and soldered up the fuel pump power line. It started up immediately and I've been spinning around in it since, happy as a clam. Thanks again, folks! Edited by Left4Bread, Jul 17 2017, 12:50 PM.
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| ales_000 | Jul 17 2017, 10:38 PM Post #5 |
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Stage 6
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lucky the original installer did a fairly crappy job of installing it! Glad you got it sorted, now you can go enjoy the 20v |
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| Left4Bread | Jul 20 2017, 12:48 PM Post #6 |
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Stage 1
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Thanks man, yeah it wasn't the most professional job but fair play for attempting it in the first place. I'd rather get a new key cut for the doors (which I am going to do) before putting in an immobiliser. |
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| AE111_JAMES | Aug 1 2017, 01:10 AM Post #7 |
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Stage 6
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Good news! |
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1:02 AM Jul 11