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| replacing clutch; how easy is it | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 28 2009, 06:40 PM (356 Views) | |
| phil a | Aug 28 2009, 06:40 PM Post #1 |
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Stage 4
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hi guys, have a new clutch to fit in my bzg, blacktop 5spd manual just wondered if anyone has done one an what sort of job it is? for example is it a case of takin the engine out or is it easy enough to change in car? i presume its a case of dropping the sub frame an just movin the gearbox away? any help or advice appreciated thanks |
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| mike ae111 | Aug 28 2009, 06:59 PM Post #2 |
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new ae111 coming soon
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i droped the sup fame its easy enough but if you on your back doing it can be a pain as the subframe can be heave as is the gearbox |
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| phil a | Aug 28 2009, 07:14 PM Post #3 |
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Stage 4
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yep shall be using axle stands an a jack probably, no access to a ramp at mo. done a few clutches like that so should be ok as long as i know it can be done like that how long did it take? any advice or tips greatly appreciated cheers guys |
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| mike ae111 | Aug 28 2009, 07:37 PM Post #4 |
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new ae111 coming soon
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about a day for me but that was the first gearbox i did on the ground |
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| AceSniper | Aug 28 2009, 08:41 PM Post #5 |
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Global Moderator
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undo hub nuts, drop sub frame, sit engine on jack on a angle and undo gearbox.... The right side shaft has a bearing on the back of the block undo the two bolts and it splits apart so you can remove the axle... don't remove the bracket from the block. The frond/rear engine mounts leave them attached to the box just unbolt them from the subframe. the left side mount has a bracket, you undo a 14mm bolt on the rear at the top, and there is two 14mm's at the front that you access from under the car... doing this leave the left hand mount on the car and a black steel bracket on the box... this means when you put it back in its much easier as this bracket will help align with the mount when you jack it back into place. There are 4main bolts holding it on 17mm? two bolts on the starter, and a few bolts on the alloy bracket around the sump |
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| mike ae111 | Aug 29 2009, 09:27 AM Post #6 |
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new ae111 coming soon
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i removed the the bracket on the block for the drive shaft didnt know i could split the drive |
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| AceSniper | Aug 29 2009, 09:46 AM Post #7 |
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Global Moderator
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its just more hassle to put on due to the dowels if you take it off the block, if you undo the 2x14mm it comes apart and the bearing comes out on the shaft |
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| phil a | Aug 29 2009, 10:02 AM Post #8 |
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Stage 4
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cheers guys all xtremely helpful i will prob tackling the clutch next weekend. have an exedy clutch to fit. so keep comments an help comin! |
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| mackey | Aug 30 2009, 10:52 AM Post #9 |
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Stage 3
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and all i can say is.... make sure u get ure flywheel machined cause if you dont it will void the warranty on ure clutch. do up the clutch plate evenly other wise it will shudder. use the correct alignment tool or wont get gear box in. and grease the input shaft(not to much just a smear) the inner of the throw out bearing and all pivot points of the fork..... make sure the fork is cliped in all good to. hope that helps lol. |
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| AceSniper | Aug 31 2009, 01:09 AM Post #10 |
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Global Moderator
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a 1/2" extension is a good alignment tool if your eyes good
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| phil a | Sep 1 2009, 06:38 PM Post #11 |
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Stage 4
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presume both driveshafts will have to come out of the box? does this mean i am gonna lose my box oil? from what ive read the gearbox takes 1.7 litres an 75 90 is all good right? |
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| TRUENOSAM | Sep 1 2009, 07:00 PM Post #12 |
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Stage 6
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Yeah you will probaly lose oil for sure. But you may as well replace the oil whilst you have it in bits And yeah 1.7l sounds about right. Get 2L and then you will garrantee you will have anough
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| AceSniper | Sep 2 2009, 02:35 AM Post #13 |
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Global Moderator
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drain the box before you pull the shafts, be just under 2lt The left shaft you need to give a sharp flick to release the retaining clip |
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7:06 PM Jul 11