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| 20v misfiring; 20v bzr missing between 2-3k? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 13 2010, 08:02 PM (1,078 Views) | |
| truenobzr | May 13 2010, 08:02 PM Post #1 |
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Stage 1
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hi guys i have a 98 ae111 trueno bzr. standard car, well maintained. problem is car can develop a miss between 2-3k rpm, once it starts missing it wont go away till i get past 3500rpm at half throttle, but, if i give it full throttle it will go away straight away? ecu has a fault code for running too lean. plugs have 8k on them, oil has 1k, castrol 10/40 semi as reccomended from toyota. also emissions were sky high for nct test. any help would be greatly appreciated |
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| BZR4AGE | May 13 2010, 08:41 PM Post #2 |
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JDM TODA
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1) Check oxygen sensor 2) Check leaky caps in ECU 3) Check knock sensor |
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| truenobzr | May 15 2010, 11:34 PM Post #3 |
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Stage 1
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1) tried 2nd hand one in it, made no difference 2)does that mean dismantle ecu? 3) how do i test, like do you know what i should be getting with an ohm meter? |
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| BZR4AGE | May 16 2010, 09:01 PM Post #4 |
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JDM TODA
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What second hand one have you tried? Knock or Oxygen? how many K's has it done? Are you certain they are all functional? re ECU, take it apart and check for leaky capacitors. There should be a thread on this somewhere. |
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| nzbzg | May 17 2010, 07:02 AM Post #5 |
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Stage 4
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i have the same problem as you my car is at stm and even they are mift about what it is hopefully they can fix it ill let you know when its fixd and what caused it |
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| truenobzr | Jun 2 2010, 09:55 PM Post #6 |
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Stage 1
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I have done a bit more investigating and i think it's not an electrical problem as first thought. I need to check if timing is correct, any ideas what mark should be at on crank cover when cams are aligned. Tell tale sign is distributor is fully turned one direction, i suspect this is to compensate for faulty timing |
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| truenobzr | Jun 2 2010, 09:56 PM Post #7 |
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Stage 1
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I have done a bit more investigating and i think it's not an electrical problem as first thought. I need to check if timing is correct, any ideas what mark should be at on crank cover when cams are aligned. Tell tale sign is distributor is fully turned one direction, i suspect this is to compensate for faulty timing |
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| The Parrot | Jun 5 2010, 01:18 PM Post #8 |
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thats some very idea info. if i recall there is only one mark on the crank. and be carful with the vvt pully as it can be moved without moving the cam. so that could be what happened. now correct me if i am wrong but i think the vvt should be turn to its left so that it can only move forward with its own adjustment. if you understand that well and good. |
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| BZR4AGE | Jul 18 2010, 08:16 AM Post #9 |
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JDM TODA
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have anyone resolved this problem? |
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| tjmr2 | Apr 6 2012, 08:41 AM Post #10 |
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Stage 1
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I installed a Blacktop from a 94 or 95 AE111 in my 89 MR2, and at first it was scary fast, then exactly as described the hesitation problem came along. When it happens the car lurches like the throttle was being switched on and off. I have replaced the oxygen sensor twice, once Bosch generic and once Toyota. Replaced the throttle position sensor, the map sensor and the vacuum hoses. Installed an Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulator and gauge. Pulled the ecu and replaced all capacitors, one was just starting to leak and the rest were bulging. And the vvt transistor after I fried it wiring in an indicating led. Pulled the timing belt cover and checked that both cams indicating pins are correctly aligned. Replaced the hydraulic cam tensioner later after it failed. Cleared the ecu numerous times by disconnecting it to check it and pulling the battery cable or the fuse. Checked the continuity of STE wire to ecu, and the resistance of the engine temp sensor for the ecu hot and cold, it was within specification. I have always run 91 octane gas, the highest I can get in Colorado, I went thru bottles of octane boost without change. Timing is set at 10 degrees btdc. Spark plugs look good, I average 34 mpg. Tail pipe has some black soot. 2" exhaust from the header back and no cat. Things I have not checked or replaced. Knock sensor and it's wire, I have never heard it ping and it's no fun to get to. Ideas anyone? |
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| jamjar15 | Apr 6 2012, 06:13 PM Post #11 |
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Stage 3
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most people are having the problem of a flatspot between 2-3k and most have sorted it by changing to a walker lambda sensor from supernova-dw, it sorted mine when i had that problem. |
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| tjmr2 | Apr 7 2012, 06:47 AM Post #12 |
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Stage 1
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Will check on availability of Walker Lambda sensors. Thanks jamjar! Made a mistake in my post, its the STA wire not the STE wire from the starter to the ECU. Anyone else have any ideas? |
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| taz-20v | Apr 17 2012, 01:34 PM Post #13 |
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Stage 6
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All this still sounds just way to familiar to me 6 months on I still cant get to the bottom of it! @ parrot can your explain in more detail hot the vvt pully movemnt works I honestly didnt know this |
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| tjmr2 | May 2 2012, 05:38 AM Post #14 |
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Stage 1
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vvt pulley as I understand it. Can be tested by removing the electrical connector from the solenoid and grounding one connector on the solenoid and connecting the other to + battery voltage. With the engine off you will hear it click as it engages and disengages. With the engine running the engine rpm will change and you will hear the engine sound different as the vvt solenoid engages and disengages. I think one wire to the solenoid is hot whenever the switch is in the on position and the ECU switches the ground on the other wire. |
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| The Parrot | May 2 2012, 04:47 PM Post #15 |
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my word i looked back on my post , bad grammer lol. basically the vvt is the inlet cam moving by i think 15 degrees when it is activated. so when a timing belt it fitted this if it is worn can be moved accidently. |
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1:02 AM Jul 11