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| Possible clutch problem?; Clutch not releasing fully when stopped has be be released then pressed again | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: May 26 2010, 09:52 AM (365 Views) | |
| Durag | May 26 2010, 09:52 AM Post #1 |
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Stage 3
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Im having a small problem with my clutch at the moment. When im at a set of traffic lights and ive my foot on the clutch waiting to go, once i do accelerate and release the clutch, it only releases a small bit, i can feel it sticking there for a few seconds, but by the time im hitting second gear its back to its normal position. Similarly if ive my foot on the clutch and break in traffic, if i slowly release the break i can feel the car moving forward even on even ground. The same thing happens when im in reverse, and after reversing, i cant go straight from reverse into first gear, i have to put it into neutral, release the clutch and then press it again. Once im driving though its perfect. The clutch presses and depresses as always, its only if im going to stop, going down through the gears and going into second and first that i notice it. The clutch isnt slipping, and goes into each gear relativly easily. It grinds occasionally going into reverse, but thats it. When i first got the car, a friend noticed that the clutch had to be released fully to accelerate from each gear and he said it should be half way, and its still like this when im driving, but like i said, when taking off from standstill, when i start to release the clutch i can feel it sticking there for a second or two wheras previously it would have released fully with my foot, and it nearly accelerates by itself without me even touching the accelerater. Apologies for the long post, but i wanted to describe it as best. Is my clutch going? Is this a serious problem or is it something a may have to live with? Thanks in advance. |
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| touge_trueno | May 26 2010, 12:07 PM Post #2 |
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Stage 5
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could be a relatively simple solution. try bleeding your clutch cylinder. could either have a bit of air in the system or possibly the clutch cylinder is on the way out. can't imagine it being too expensive to buy a kit to redo the cylinder. |
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| Durag | May 26 2010, 12:15 PM Post #3 |
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Stage 3
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Cheers, ill try bleeding it first. I noticed this morning, after reversing out of my driveway (which is on a slight slope) i had to break reversing out of the street so i had my feet on the break and the clutch while in reverse and when i stopped moving i could feel the car chugging so i kept my feet on the break and the clutch and after a few seconds the car conked out. |
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| touge_trueno | May 26 2010, 08:31 PM Post #4 |
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Stage 5
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were you riding the clutch or clutch fully in? it would make sense. if you just think of it as an old-school car with a clutch cable, its just like the cable has streched and the work put in by your foot is not reaching the clutch fork due to air in the system or the cylinder being poked. |
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| Durag | May 27 2010, 10:00 AM Post #5 |
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Stage 3
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It really just seems to be when i have my foot on the clutch, like when im reversing slowly into a space, or taking off slowly that the problem is. I have to release the clutch very quickly otherwise it almost stays in and the car will conk. If i hold the clutch in in neutal after about 5 or 6 seconds i can feel it sinking further in. Im calling out to a friend today so were gonna try and bleed the cylinder, if that doenst work ill try something else. Cheers for the replys. |
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| Durag | May 27 2010, 06:56 PM Post #6 |
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Stage 3
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Called out to my friends, him and his father said the clutch cylinder shouldnt need to be bled, that this is only really done when a new clutch is put in, is this the case for Levins too? They reckon the problem should go away, and if it doesnt it might be the pressure plates does this sound right? The problem actually went away for a while today and i thought i was sorted, but it came back. Doesnt seem to be as bad as it was yesterday though so hopefully... |
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| TRUENOSAM | May 27 2010, 09:42 PM Post #7 |
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Stage 6
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You should bleed your clutch system at least once every year in my opinion. Could be a pressure plate fault as in its not realsing the friction plate from the flywheel. The only way to check is buy taking the gearbox out and checking the clutch visually It will never go away as cars dont fix themselves unfortunatley |
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| Durag | May 28 2010, 07:27 AM Post #8 |
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Stage 3
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I think they ment if there was air in the clutch cylinder and if that was what was causing the problem then that air should release by itself, rather than the car fixing itself. I'll try bleeding it this weekend so and go from there. |
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| touge_trueno | May 28 2010, 10:52 PM Post #9 |
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Stage 5
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yeah clutch fluid is just brake fluid and it is recommended to change that every year or so as well. if the same fluid has been in there for a while then it can get moisture in the fluid etc just like brake fluid. taking the g/box off to chack is a bit of a overkill/waste unless you are sure everything is fine. my guess would be fluid, then cylinder.
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| Durag | May 28 2010, 11:10 PM Post #10 |
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Stage 3
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Nice one man, cheers. Bleedin first so, hopefully ill get around to it this weekend and ill get back here and let you know how i get on. |
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| supernova-dw | Jun 4 2010, 08:17 PM Post #11 |
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Did you get this sorted in the end mate ? |
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| doug20v | Jun 5 2010, 12:22 PM Post #12 |
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toyota head.. honda hater
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slave cylinder mine went and i had the same problem. changed it an its perfect now! |
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| Durag | Jun 7 2010, 02:18 PM Post #13 |
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Stage 3
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No, my friend who i was supposed to bleed it with has been on holidays the last week, he said just see how it goes for the week. Im calling out to him later today to do it. I didnt want to bring it to a mechanic in case they go tearing the gearbox out when all it needed was a bleed. I noticed it got worse yesterday though. I was pressing the clutch when the car was off, and i noticed if i push the pedal in slowly its completly limp, and if i push it in quickly with a bit of force it is engaging. At once stage i couldnt get it into first gear in the middle of one of the estates. It kept conking, eventually i got it in. I got dot 5.1 clutch and break fluid, i was told by the Toyota dealer that dot 3 isnt been made any more, and dot 4 and dot 5.1 have replaced it and will be fine in the Levin. |
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| Durag | Jun 7 2010, 02:20 PM Post #14 |
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Stage 3
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Is changing the slave cylinder a bit job? How much was a new one (or second hand, whichever you used), and how much did labour cost? |
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| doug20v | Jun 7 2010, 05:14 PM Post #15 |
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toyota head.. honda hater
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no its a vsry easy job to change. just crimp the hose going into it. undo the 2or 3 bolts an off it comes. ya can have it changed an bled within a half hour in our cars. i had another one there from a levin im braking. but.. i have a feeling a corolla one will do so its worth taking pics of your one and goin to your local scrappy to see. cant see it costing more than 50 euro all in 2nd hand?? |
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| Durag | Jun 8 2010, 09:16 PM Post #16 |
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Stage 3
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K well bled clutch cylinder and the clutch definitly seemed better, however it has seemed to return. I dont think it was bled properly, i thought the clutch had to be pressed, then the bleeder screw loosened to let out air and excess fluid, THEN the pedal released? My friend said it was fine to open the bleeder screw and press and depress the pedal while this was opened. I thought when the pedal was released while the bleeder screw was opened this would put air back in? Maybe im wrong but thats what i thought it was. I was in a bit of a rush so only done it twice, but im gonna give it a another bleed tomorrow and do it a good few times. |
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| touge_trueno | Jun 9 2010, 05:34 AM Post #17 |
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Stage 5
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google is your friend http://www.stealth316.com/2-clutchbleeding.htm sounds like your mate has got it wrong. initially (when line is empty) just pumping the pedal with the bleed screw open will push fluid through quick but won't get rid of air bubbles which only have to be very small to be a PITA. Edited by touge_trueno, Jun 9 2010, 05:35 AM.
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| Durag | Jun 10 2010, 08:31 PM Post #18 |
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Stage 3
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Bled the clutch myself last night with the help of another friend a few times, and its made a huge difference, clutch is like it was, so cheers for all the help. At least now if it re-occurs ill know to try something else. |
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| Ikenty | Aug 23 2010, 06:27 AM Post #19 |
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BZ Touring Carib
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Sorry for stealing your thread but I too have a clutch problem too. When I drive on regular steet tires 195/50/15 I can accelerate from a stop and burn out the entire fist gear and some of second before going to third but when I use the Nitto 555R 205/55/14 and I launch in first the revs stick at 4000rpm then slowly moved up to redline and when i shift to second there is a big lag and the revs stick again. If I accelerate slowly and shift at redline everything is fine with either set of tires. I make all my gears without problems ecxept reverse which if I am parked and I try to go to reverse I have to drop the handbrake and let the car roll a little to get in reverse (This happened from the begining and also with the BZR before the gear box was swapped for 5 speed). |
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