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F-86 Sabre; Hasegawa 1/48
Topic Started: Aug 31 2013, 05:29 PM (731 Views)
Simon G
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heavy weatherer
I shall be building this for the GB.

It's a nice enough kit, typical Hasegawa, crisp surface detail with no unnecessary fiddly parts (like complete engines that can't be seen!)

It's going to be finished in natural metal, not something I have huge success with . . . . but this time I have a cunning plan!

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Si.
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Deleted User
Deleted User

My favorite aircraft and a cracking kit,

I will watch this with interest :cool
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Mark M
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Hawk T1
:pop
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DLG Dave
Lt Dave 'Wraith' Carter
Yep.

Sabres are always good.
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Olde Farte
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Lt. Derek 'Smurfy' Reeve
Bring it on, I'm waiting patiently.
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Mosquito
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Kit reviewer
Nice choice mate.
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Cimmerian
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Lt. Ken 'Albatros' Jeffrey
Nice, I have a 1/72 Airfix one that I plan to knock together for this GB. I shall watch yours first to see how it's done. :lol:
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DevilFish
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LCDR Paul "Voodoo" Carter
I have the Revell version of this (altho mines the -40, so will be RAF). Will be watching with interest. :pop
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Simon G
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heavy weatherer
Ok, I've made a start.

The kit is of a style that suits me, no fiddly bits but nice crisp detail on the surface which should finish up well with washing and weathering, the decal sheet contains the yellow I.D. markings which is nice as that will reduce the amount of masking and messing that has to take place on top of my natural metal.

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The interior goes together quickly, only a few parts, dry brushing and an acrylic wash bring out the detail well enough. All I added was some straps to the seat.

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In no time it's time to seal it all up, weight added to the front with lead shot coated in 5 min epoxy.

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Si.

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Mark M
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Hawk T1
Quick work mate
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Simon G
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heavy weatherer
Because this model is to be finished in Alclad, the pre-paint finish has to be blemish free.

I wanted to avoid any 'ghost seems', this is where a joint that has been sanded to perfection later shows up again under a coat of paint as a slight sunken mark, not too big a problem under a weathered matt finish but all too obvious on a NMF. I think the cause is a continued chemical reaction between solvent type plastic glues and the plastic parts resulting in shrinking days after the joint is glued. I elected to use cyano for all major joints to avoid this possibility.

Having joined the fuselage together I then spent a long time sanding and polishing to get the jointed areas back to the same sort of surface shine as the surrounding plastic. I started at the front, and hour later I moved on to the tail area at this point the model slipped out of my hand and hit the floor, the nose weight ensuring that there was enough force to smash the intake!

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So I started all over again . . . . and some hours later I now have this.

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Si.
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Mark M
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Hawk T1
Good save
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Disorder
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Lt Paddy 'Chancer' Boyle
Looking good. Nice repair work as well.
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Simon G
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heavy weatherer
Assembly to the painting stage has been very quick, a simple shape and low parts count all helping.

Now the plan is to use Alclad to produce the natural metal finish. While Alclad is fairly robust in terms of being able to be handled after painting compared to other metallic finishes it's still fragile compared to normal enamels and acrylics. For this reason I don't want to handle it any more that necessary so I will need to apply as much tonal effect and weathering as I can underneath It!

Stage 1 is to apply an overall medium grey coat, to hide the seam lines and any other discolouration's, this is then rubbed with some very fine micromesh to get it as glossy as possible.

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Next some panels are picked out in lighter/darker greys, Alclad being translucent should show up his differences in tone.

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The last stage will be to try to replicate some scuffing . . . . .

Si.

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Mark M
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Hawk T1
i REALLY cant wait for this!!
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