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How old is everyone?; Share some info..don't be shy
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Topic Started: Feb 26 2008, 04:30 PM (1,532 Views)
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HoosierLars
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Feb 27 2008, 03:52 PM
Post #91
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3 in a row
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testing
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FallenEmpire
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Feb 27 2008, 05:13 PM
Post #92
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Senior
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- IU1fan
- Feb 27 2008, 03:26 PM
I am 40 years old, just turned in Dec.
:( I live in Aurora, IN which is about 30 minutes outside of Cincinnati. Will be married 20 years in July, wow! Have two kids, a girl 15 and a boy 10. Went one year at IU and transferred to Northern Kentucky University when I got married. (local commute) Graduated from NKU with a degree in Business. My husband and I run our own business for the past 10 years in Cincinnati, called GraphixOne, we build printing presses. (That is right I said "husband", I am female) Have always been and always will be huge IU fan.
Nice to have a broad on here!!! Got any daughters looking for a rich doctor? Just kidding...Im in sales...
Seriously though glad to have you here, Im impressed a woman would stick around and listen to our garbage!!
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BoilerUp100
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Feb 27 2008, 05:22 PM
Post #93
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Junior
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15 years old, born July 4, 1992 (Yeah, Independence Day!) Freshman at Heritage High School near the Fort Wayne area Plan on going to a college somewhere in Indiana and getting into the accounting field.
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tkeena33
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Feb 27 2008, 05:27 PM
Post #94
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Assistant Coach
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21
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Bobobinc
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Feb 27 2008, 06:48 PM
Post #95
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Scrimshanker
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- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 01:54 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 01:20 PM
Born July 1968. Turn 40 this July. IU Graduate. Business Law 5 years Engineering school after that. Currently own my own HVAC Engineering firm, employees ( 11 ) Married with 3 kids, 2 sons ages 16 and 6 and a daughter age 14.
I could use some free HVAC advice.
:) My house has an addition, and they added flex ducts in the attic to service two new rooms. The existing ducts are in the crawl-space (the kind you never want to fucking go near.) When we moved in, 95% of the flow was into the new rooms. By closing the room vents, I got the flow down to 70%, so the rest of the house does ok, maybe getting 30%. My questions: 1) To better equalize the flow and eliminate the hissing sound at the room vents, hould I consider installing dampers where the flex ducts come off the furnace. 2) My furnace is about 12 years old, and I'm considering a new one. Can I get one with a more powerful fan to push more air through the old fixed ducts? 3) Should I consider increasing the size of the old ducts? The old ducts aren't insulated, so I may need to look into that too. I know this probably isn't enough info to provide reliable answers, but I would be interested in your gut reaction. Thanks!
:cheers:
No disrespect to Anarchy, but I'm a custom homebuilder and I can probably give you some advice.
The original furnace/air handler was sized for the square footage of your house(unless you were planning on the addition when it was built). It sounds like you have a 2 story with a furnace on each floor. In a nutshell, putting dampers on your ducts at the main trunkline is the best option short of increasing the size of the air handler.
If you want to discuss it further, we can take it off the board with email etc.
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IU1fan
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Feb 27 2008, 06:54 PM
Post #96
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Assistant Coach
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- FallenEmpire
- Feb 27 2008, 05:13 PM
- IU1fan
- Feb 27 2008, 03:26 PM
I am 40 years old, just turned in Dec.
:( I live in Aurora, IN which is about 30 minutes outside of Cincinnati. Will be married 20 years in July, wow! Have two kids, a girl 15 and a boy 10. Went one year at IU and transferred to Northern Kentucky University when I got married. (local commute) Graduated from NKU with a degree in Business. My husband and I run our own business for the past 10 years in Cincinnati, called GraphixOne, we build printing presses. (That is right I said "husband", I am female) Have always been and always will be huge IU fan.
Nice to have a broad on here!!! Got any daughters looking for a rich doctor? Just kidding...Im in sales... Seriously though glad to have you here, Im impressed a woman would stick around and listen to our garbage!!
Thanks Fallen, I have always posted on Espn and here and I guess just never stated that I was a woman and everyone just assumed I wasn't, ha. Anyway, my daughter is only 15 so leave her out of this, lol. I get a laugh out of some of the posts and just like to talk basketball.
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Anarchy
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Feb 27 2008, 07:11 PM
Post #97
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All-Star
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- Bobobinc
- Feb 27 2008, 06:48 PM
- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 01:54 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 01:20 PM
Born July 1968. Turn 40 this July. IU Graduate. Business Law 5 years Engineering school after that. Currently own my own HVAC Engineering firm, employees ( 11 ) Married with 3 kids, 2 sons ages 16 and 6 and a daughter age 14.
I could use some free HVAC advice.
:) My house has an addition, and they added flex ducts in the attic to service two new rooms. The existing ducts are in the crawl-space (the kind you never want to fucking go near.) When we moved in, 95% of the flow was into the new rooms. By closing the room vents, I got the flow down to 70%, so the rest of the house does ok, maybe getting 30%. My questions: 1) To better equalize the flow and eliminate the hissing sound at the room vents, hould I consider installing dampers where the flex ducts come off the furnace. 2) My furnace is about 12 years old, and I'm considering a new one. Can I get one with a more powerful fan to push more air through the old fixed ducts? 3) Should I consider increasing the size of the old ducts? The old ducts aren't insulated, so I may need to look into that too. I know this probably isn't enough info to provide reliable answers, but I would be interested in your gut reaction. Thanks!
:cheers:
No disrespect to Anarchy, but I'm a custom homebuilder and I can probably give you some advice. The original furnace/air handler was sized for the square footage of your house(unless you were planning on the addition when it was built). It sounds like you have a 2 story with a furnace on each floor. In a nutshell, putting dampers on your ducts at the main trunkline is the best option short of increasing the size of the air handler. If you want to discuss it further, we can take it off the board with email etc.
Wrong answer. You want to add a Honeywell Trol Temp zoning system to get the air where needed and it shuts down the rooms not needed automatically. Very inexpensive and cost effective. Runs off a main board and slave stats/ probes in each zone. It also has a bypass damper so you don't shut too many runs to damage you system. The bypass runs off static pressure and dumps it back into the return to recycle it rather than waste the energy.
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Anarchy
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Feb 27 2008, 07:17 PM
Post #98
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All-Star
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- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 01:54 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 01:20 PM
Born July 1968. Turn 40 this July. IU Graduate. Business Law 5 years Engineering school after that. Currently own my own HVAC Engineering firm, employees ( 11 ) Married with 3 kids, 2 sons ages 16 and 6 and a daughter age 14.
I could use some free HVAC advice.
:) My house has an addition, and they added flex ducts in the attic to service two new rooms. The existing ducts are in the crawl-space (the kind you never want to fucking go near.) When we moved in, 95% of the flow was into the new rooms. By closing the room vents, I got the flow down to 70%, so the rest of the house does ok, maybe getting 30%. My questions: 1) To better equalize the flow and eliminate the hissing sound at the room vents, hould I consider installing dampers where the flex ducts come off the furnace. 2) My furnace is about 12 years old, and I'm considering a new one. Can I get one with a more powerful fan to push more air through the old fixed ducts? 3) Should I consider increasing the size of the old ducts? The old ducts aren't insulated, so I may need to look into that too. I know this probably isn't enough info to provide reliable answers, but I would be interested in your gut reaction. Thanks!
:cheers:
As for the rest of your questions. Yes, a new furnace will push more air. Runs need to be sized according to the room size and need to be sealed and insulated. It takes 1 CFM of air for every square foot in the room. Length times width. You also have to factor insulation value and windows and on what side of the house. Have a professional come out and do a load calculation on each room. It should be free of charge as an estimate.
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HoosierLars
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Feb 27 2008, 07:17 PM
Post #99
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3 in a row
- Posts:
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- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 07:11 PM
- Bobobinc
- Feb 27 2008, 06:48 PM
- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 01:54 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 01:20 PM
Born July 1968. Turn 40 this July. IU Graduate. Business Law 5 years Engineering school after that. Currently own my own HVAC Engineering firm, employees ( 11 ) Married with 3 kids, 2 sons ages 16 and 6 and a daughter age 14.
I could use some free HVAC advice.
:) My house has an addition, and they added flex ducts in the attic to service two new rooms. The existing ducts are in the crawl-space (the kind you never want to fucking go near.) When we moved in, 95% of the flow was into the new rooms. By closing the room vents, I got the flow down to 70%, so the rest of the house does ok, maybe getting 30%. My questions: 1) To better equalize the flow and eliminate the hissing sound at the room vents, hould I consider installing dampers where the flex ducts come off the furnace. 2) My furnace is about 12 years old, and I'm considering a new one. Can I get one with a more powerful fan to push more air through the old fixed ducts? 3) Should I consider increasing the size of the old ducts? The old ducts aren't insulated, so I may need to look into that too. I know this probably isn't enough info to provide reliable answers, but I would be interested in your gut reaction. Thanks!
:cheers:
No disrespect to Anarchy, but I'm a custom homebuilder and I can probably give you some advice. The original furnace/air handler was sized for the square footage of your house(unless you were planning on the addition when it was built). It sounds like you have a 2 story with a furnace on each floor. In a nutshell, putting dampers on your ducts at the main trunkline is the best option short of increasing the size of the air handler. If you want to discuss it further, we can take it off the board with email etc.
Wrong answer. You want to add a Honeywell Trol Temp zoning system to get the air where needed and it shuts down the rooms not needed automatically. Very inexpensive and cost effective. Runs off a main board and slave stats/ probes in each zone. It also has a bypass damper so you don't shut too many runs to damage you system. The bypass runs off static pressure and dumps it back into the return to recycle it rather than waste the energy.
Thanks for the advice.
:cheers: I already responded to Bob with some more details about the system, and I will look into getting the Honeywell Trol Temp system you suggested. The original owner jury rigged a few things around the house, and the duct system is just one problem that I've had to deal with.
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Bobobinc
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Feb 27 2008, 08:21 PM
Post #100
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Scrimshanker
- Posts:
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- February 6, 2008
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- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 07:11 PM
- Bobobinc
- Feb 27 2008, 06:48 PM
- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 01:54 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 01:20 PM
Born July 1968. Turn 40 this July. IU Graduate. Business Law 5 years Engineering school after that. Currently own my own HVAC Engineering firm, employees ( 11 ) Married with 3 kids, 2 sons ages 16 and 6 and a daughter age 14.
I could use some free HVAC advice.
:) My house has an addition, and they added flex ducts in the attic to service two new rooms. The existing ducts are in the crawl-space (the kind you never want to fucking go near.) When we moved in, 95% of the flow was into the new rooms. By closing the room vents, I got the flow down to 70%, so the rest of the house does ok, maybe getting 30%. My questions: 1) To better equalize the flow and eliminate the hissing sound at the room vents, hould I consider installing dampers where the flex ducts come off the furnace. 2) My furnace is about 12 years old, and I'm considering a new one. Can I get one with a more powerful fan to push more air through the old fixed ducts? 3) Should I consider increasing the size of the old ducts? The old ducts aren't insulated, so I may need to look into that too. I know this probably isn't enough info to provide reliable answers, but I would be interested in your gut reaction. Thanks!
:cheers:
No disrespect to Anarchy, but I'm a custom homebuilder and I can probably give you some advice. The original furnace/air handler was sized for the square footage of your house(unless you were planning on the addition when it was built). It sounds like you have a 2 story with a furnace on each floor. In a nutshell, putting dampers on your ducts at the main trunkline is the best option short of increasing the size of the air handler. If you want to discuss it further, we can take it off the board with email etc.
Wrong answer. You want to add a Honeywell Trol Temp zoning system to get the air where needed and it shuts down the rooms not needed automatically. Very inexpensive and cost effective. Runs off a main board and slave stats/ probes in each zone. It also has a bypass damper so you don't shut too many runs to damage you system. The bypass runs off static pressure and dumps it back into the return to recycle it rather than waste the energy.
I retract my earlier comment about no disrespect.
It's not the wrong answer. Without knowing more about the house, we don't know what the correct answer is.
Retrofitting a zoned system is not necessarily inexpensive, and without knowing how he uses the rest of his house it may not be practical.
I'm not sure spending the money to zone a 12 year old system makes much sense but you're the engineer. Looks good on paper so it must be right.
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Anarchy
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Feb 27 2008, 08:43 PM
Post #101
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All-Star
- Posts:
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- February 5, 2008
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- Bobobinc
- Feb 27 2008, 08:21 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 07:11 PM
- Bobobinc
- Feb 27 2008, 06:48 PM
- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 01:54 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 01:20 PM
Born July 1968. Turn 40 this July. IU Graduate. Business Law 5 years Engineering school after that. Currently own my own HVAC Engineering firm, employees ( 11 ) Married with 3 kids, 2 sons ages 16 and 6 and a daughter age 14.
I could use some free HVAC advice.
:) My house has an addition, and they added flex ducts in the attic to service two new rooms. The existing ducts are in the crawl-space (the kind you never want to fucking go near.) When we moved in, 95% of the flow was into the new rooms. By closing the room vents, I got the flow down to 70%, so the rest of the house does ok, maybe getting 30%. My questions: 1) To better equalize the flow and eliminate the hissing sound at the room vents, hould I consider installing dampers where the flex ducts come off the furnace. 2) My furnace is about 12 years old, and I'm considering a new one. Can I get one with a more powerful fan to push more air through the old fixed ducts? 3) Should I consider increasing the size of the old ducts? The old ducts aren't insulated, so I may need to look into that too. I know this probably isn't enough info to provide reliable answers, but I would be interested in your gut reaction. Thanks!
:cheers:
No disrespect to Anarchy, but I'm a custom homebuilder and I can probably give you some advice. The original furnace/air handler was sized for the square footage of your house(unless you were planning on the addition when it was built). It sounds like you have a 2 story with a furnace on each floor. In a nutshell, putting dampers on your ducts at the main trunkline is the best option short of increasing the size of the air handler. If you want to discuss it further, we can take it off the board with email etc.
Wrong answer. You want to add a Honeywell Trol Temp zoning system to get the air where needed and it shuts down the rooms not needed automatically. Very inexpensive and cost effective. Runs off a main board and slave stats/ probes in each zone. It also has a bypass damper so you don't shut too many runs to damage you system. The bypass runs off static pressure and dumps it back into the return to recycle it rather than waste the energy.
I retract my earlier comment about no disrespect. It's not the wrong answer. Without knowing more about the house, we don't know what the correct answer is. Retrofitting a zoned system is not necessarily inexpensive, and without knowing how he uses the rest of his house it may not be practical. I'm not sure spending the money to zone a 12 year old system makes much sense but you're the engineer. Looks good on paper so it must be right.
I meant no disrespect when I posted that, but i can see how it would be taken wrong. I do apologize. I'm too used to being a boss I guess.
:cheers: As for the Dampers you referred to at the trunk. They are actually" system killers " in disguise. The problem is, when you add them to a branch run. They tend to cause turbulence or a vortexing effect when you try and damper one down which drastically decreases the Velocity inside the trunk line. You then usually end up with a bigger problem with runs at the end of the trunk because of the loss of force or velocity of the airflow allowing hot and cold spots in the home. If he's going to upgrade the furnace and rerun the supplies anyway, a zone system seems to be the practical choice since the system would be tore apart anyway. The dampers are easily installed by cutting a section of pipe or flex away to accommodate. As for wiring, most Honeywell systems allow you to run conventional thermostat wire which is very inexpensive. Whole system shouldn't run over about $2000.00. Yet, how do you put a price on comfort. Again, i do apologize for the way I came off.
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Anarchy
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Feb 27 2008, 08:48 PM
Post #102
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All-Star
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- Bobobinc
- Feb 26 2008, 08:03 PM
2nd oldest fart so far.
I'm 46. Born and raised about 30 miles from W. Lafayette. Went to Delphi High School.
Graduated PU in 1985. BS in Construction Management.
I am a custom homebuilder living in Charlotte. Married w/ a 5 yr old boy.
I was at the chair throwing game. Priceless !!!
Again, I do apologize.
:cheers: I wish I lived closer to Charlotte, I would love to sit with a beer and talk shop. I understand the houses there can be breathtaking. I'm sure you build quality homes.
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Boilerfan47374
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Feb 27 2008, 08:51 PM
Post #103
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Junior
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21 years old from Richmond, IN Graduate of Richmond High class of 2005 (Yes that is correct of the 53% grad. rate at the school :mellow: )
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Anarchy
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Feb 27 2008, 08:53 PM
Post #104
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All-Star
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- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 02:01 PM
I figured you guys would get a kick out of that.
:D Chillin' is probably thinking: :wtf:
No problem Lars. You've always been a good friend.
:cheers:
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Bobobinc
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Feb 27 2008, 09:00 PM
Post #105
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Scrimshanker
- Posts:
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- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 08:43 PM
- Bobobinc
- Feb 27 2008, 08:21 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 07:11 PM
- Bobobinc
- Feb 27 2008, 06:48 PM
- HoosierLars
- Feb 27 2008, 01:54 PM
- Anarchy06
- Feb 27 2008, 01:20 PM
Born July 1968. Turn 40 this July. IU Graduate. Business Law 5 years Engineering school after that. Currently own my own HVAC Engineering firm, employees ( 11 ) Married with 3 kids, 2 sons ages 16 and 6 and a daughter age 14.
I could use some free HVAC advice.
:) My house has an addition, and they added flex ducts in the attic to service two new rooms. The existing ducts are in the crawl-space (the kind you never want to fucking go near.) When we moved in, 95% of the flow was into the new rooms. By closing the room vents, I got the flow down to 70%, so the rest of the house does ok, maybe getting 30%. My questions: 1) To better equalize the flow and eliminate the hissing sound at the room vents, hould I consider installing dampers where the flex ducts come off the furnace. 2) My furnace is about 12 years old, and I'm considering a new one. Can I get one with a more powerful fan to push more air through the old fixed ducts? 3) Should I consider increasing the size of the old ducts? The old ducts aren't insulated, so I may need to look into that too. I know this probably isn't enough info to provide reliable answers, but I would be interested in your gut reaction. Thanks!
:cheers:
No disrespect to Anarchy, but I'm a custom homebuilder and I can probably give you some advice. The original furnace/air handler was sized for the square footage of your house(unless you were planning on the addition when it was built). It sounds like you have a 2 story with a furnace on each floor. In a nutshell, putting dampers on your ducts at the main trunkline is the best option short of increasing the size of the air handler. If you want to discuss it further, we can take it off the board with email etc.
Wrong answer. You want to add a Honeywell Trol Temp zoning system to get the air where needed and it shuts down the rooms not needed automatically. Very inexpensive and cost effective. Runs off a main board and slave stats/ probes in each zone. It also has a bypass damper so you don't shut too many runs to damage you system. The bypass runs off static pressure and dumps it back into the return to recycle it rather than waste the energy.
I retract my earlier comment about no disrespect. It's not the wrong answer. Without knowing more about the house, we don't know what the correct answer is. Retrofitting a zoned system is not necessarily inexpensive, and without knowing how he uses the rest of his house it may not be practical. I'm not sure spending the money to zone a 12 year old system makes much sense but you're the engineer. Looks good on paper so it must be right.
I meant no disrespect when I posted that, but i can see how it would be taken wrong. I do apologize. I'm too used to being a boss I guess.
:cheers: As for the Dampers you referred to at the trunk. They are actually" system killers " in disguise. The problem is, when you add them to a branch run. They tend to cause turbulence or a vortexing effect when you try and damper one down which drastically decreases the Velocity inside the trunk line. You then usually end up with a bigger problem with runs at the end of the trunk because of the loss of force or velocity of the airflow allowing hot and cold spots in the home. If he's going to upgrade the furnace and rerun the supplies anyway, a zone system seems to be the practical choice since the system would be tore apart anyway. The dampers are easily installed by cutting a section of pipe or flex away to accommodate. As for wiring, most Honeywell systems allow you to run conventional thermostat wire which is very inexpensive. Whole system shouldn't run over about $2000.00. Yet, how do you put a price on comfort. Again, i do apologize for the way I came off.
No problem Anarchy. I accept and back at you.
I got his message. It's a one story that had the system in the crawl but was moved to the attic when the addition was done. Now the air has to go from the attic to the crawl and then to the rest of the house( except the addition). I don't know what's up with the returns.
Your suggestion on the zones is a good one. I used to do them mostly in bonus rooms but I just did one in a house where the clients' elderly parents have a suite on the main floor so they can keep their area at 85 all the time !!!!! . I've also found variable speed air handlers to be pretty effective.
Enough shop. Take it easy.
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